The Pink Dream-a free pattern

This is one of the first patterns I ever made. It’s in one size only.
I’m going to grade it someday – I can’t promise when.

Needles : 2.5 mm (US 1½)¨- I knit fairly loosely so of you are a very tight knitter you might want to consider going up half a size or so.
Yarn : Three skeins of Mandarin Petit from Sandnes Garn or similar fingering weight cotton. (Actually you need just a little more than two skeins)
Size : Approximately 18 months – but the size is not difficult to change. Pattern is dividable by 10.

Pattern :

Row 1 : * YO, K3, sl1, k2tog, psso, K3, YO, P1 *
Row 2 : * K9, P1 *
Row 3 : * K1, YO, K2, sl1, k2tog, psso, K2, YO, K1, P1 *
Row 4 : * K9, P1 *
Row 5 : * K2, YO, K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, K1, YO, K2, P1 *
Row 6 : * K9, P1 *
Row 7 : * K3, YO, sl1, k2tog, psso, YO, K3, P1 *

Knitty´s list of abbreviations is here.

Method : Cast on 220 stitches. If you want a bigger dress you cast on more stitches. The dress is knit on the round up to the armholes.
Purl one round.
Knit pattern – or any other fitting lace pattern you like. I did the pattern two times over, but you can knit the pattern just once or you can do it three times or more.

After the pattern and some knit rounds (*P1, K9*) (how many depends one how many time you did the pattern), approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) from the start it is time for the first decrease.* k3, k2togtbl, k4, P1*
Place the decrease on top of the highest point of each “pattern top” – that is also in the middle between the purl stitches. Click on the picture if you are in doubt – if you look at it large the decreases are fairly clear.

The rest of the skirt is knit in the same way. After 6 cm (2,4 in) the second decrease is placed, again in the middle between the purled stitches and done through the back loop. The third one is 5 cm (2in) after the second one, number four is 4cm (1,6in) after the third, the fifth is 1,5 cm (0.6in) after the fourth and the last one is 1cm (o.4 in) after the fifth.
If you want a longer or shorter skirt you just change the intervals between the decreases.

When the skirt is approximately 26 cm (10.2in) or the length you want, it is time for the rib *k1, p1*. Knit approximately 4cm (1.6 cm) rib.
Knit pattern once. You might have to pick up one stitch or so in each side to make it fit.
Knit 3 cm (1.2in) .

Note : the armholes are rather big in this dress. It is made for Icelandic summers where little girls have to wear substantial long sleeved t-shirts and leggings under dresses like this for warmth. So if you live in a lovely warm climate you might want to make a smaller armhole – by knitting a few more rounds before you start the armhole for example.
Cast off 3 st. in each side for armholes.
Put front stitches on a stitchholder.

Back.

Knit approximately 5 cm , casting off the first and the last stitch every other row, three times in all.

Then you knit pattern once in each side, starting two stitches from edge.
Cast off the stitches between the patterns – they should be approximately 9.
Knit each shoulder separately. Knit one row, purl one row (knit one right, side purl on wrong side). Knit pattern once again (if you want to). Knit 1 cm (0.4in).
Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Note : The neck opening is rather wide in the dress – for the same reason as the arm opening. If you want a smaller opening you simply start it later – but then you should make some kind of opening on one of the shoulders to ensure easy dressing.

Front :

Decrease for armholes in the same way as in back. Start pattern 5 cm (2in) from top of waist pattern and at the same time cast off the stitches between the patterns. Knit pattern two times more on each shoulder with one knit, one purled rounds in between.

Graft shoulders together, hide all ends and crochet around arm and neck opening.

Þessi uppskrift er því miður bara til á ensku eins og er.

This is one of the first patterns I ever made. It’s in one size only.
I’m going to grade it someday – I can’t promise when.

Needles : 2.5 mm (US 1½)¨- I knit fairly loosely so of you are a very tight knitter you might want to consider going up half a size or so.
Yarn : Three skeins of Mandarin Petit from Sandnes Garn or similar fingering weight cotton. (Actually you need just a little more than two skeins)
Size : Approximately 18 months – but the size is not difficult to change. Pattern is dividable by 10.

Pattern :

Row 1 : * YO, K3, sl1, k2tog, psso, K3, YO, P1 *
Row 2 : * K9, P1 *
Row 3 : * K1, YO, K2, sl1, k2tog, psso, K2, YO, K1, P1 *
Row 4 : * K9, P1 *
Row 5 : * K2, YO, K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, K1, YO, K2, P1 *
Row 6 : * K9, P1 *
Row 7 : * K3, YO, sl1, k2tog, psso, YO, K3, P1 *

Knitty´s list of abbreviations is here.

Method : Cast on 220 stitches. If you want a bigger dress you cast on more stitches. The dress is knit on the round up to the armholes.
Purl one round.
Knit pattern – or any other fitting lace pattern you like. I did the pattern two times over, but you can knit the pattern just once or you can do it three times or more.

After the pattern and some knit rounds (*P1, K9*) (how many depends one how many time you did the pattern), approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) from the start it is time for the first decrease.* k3, k2togtbl, k4, P1*
Place the decrease on top of the highest point of each “pattern top” – that is also in the middle between the purl stitches. Click on the picture if you are in doubt – if you look at it large the decreases are fairly clear.

The rest of the skirt is knit in the same way. After 6 cm (2,4 in) the second decrease is placed, again in the middle between the purled stitches and done through the back loop. The third one is 5 cm (2in) after the second one, number four is 4cm (1,6in) after the third, the fifth is 1,5 cm (0.6in) after the fourth and the last one is 1cm (o.4 in) after the fifth.
If you want a longer or shorter skirt you just change the intervals between the decreases.

When the skirt is approximately 26 cm (10.2in) or the length you want, it is time for the rib *k1, p1*. Knit approximately 4cm (1.6 cm) rib.
Knit pattern once. You might have to pick up one stitch or so in each side to make it fit.
Knit 3 cm (1.2in) .

Note : the armholes are rather big in this dress. It is made for Icelandic summers where little girls have to wear substantial long sleeved t-shirts and leggings under dresses like this for warmth. So if you live in a lovely warm climate you might want to make a smaller armhole – by knitting a few more rounds before you start the armhole for example.
Cast off 3 st. in each side for armholes.

Put front stitches on a stitchholder.

Back.

Knit approximately 5 cm , casting off the first and the last stitch every other row, three times in all.

Then you knit pattern once in each side, starting two stitches from edge.
Cast off the stitches between the patterns – they should be approximately 9.
Knit each shoulder separately. Knit one row, purl one row (knit one right, side purl on wrong side). Knit pattern once again (if you want to). Knit 1 cm (0.4in).
Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Note : The neck opening is rather wide in the dress – for the same reason as the arm opening. If you want a smaller opening you simply start it later – but then you should make some kind of opening on one of the shoulders to ensure easy dressing.

Front :

Decrease for armholes in the same way as in back. Start pattern 5 cm (2in) from top of waist pattern and at the same time cast off the stitches between the patterns. Knit pattern two times more on each shoulder with one knit, one purled rounds in between.

Graft shoulders together, hide all ends and crochet around arm and neck opening.

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